Friday, June 29, 2012

New Look 6033 and 6100 Ikat!

Aloha!  I have two New Look patterns that I've been anxious to make.  First New Look 6100, which is a pattern for a pair of wide legged shorts with front pockets and a wide waistband.  Second, New Look 6033 which is a combination pattern for knits.  I really liked the view C top with the fluttery sleeves and wide v-shaped neckband.  Unfortunately, neither of my final looks are exact representations of the patterns, since I made several design changes.  But that is the great thing about sewing.  You can start with a pattern to help you with the basic structure.  Then add your own design elements to make it uniquely yours!
Let's start with the shorts.  I normally make a muslin for shorts or pants patterns, but since I was using a very inexpensive, $2.50/yard fabric, I decided to cut out the size 12, which is one size larger than I normally cut, and just fit the pattern as I sewed.  The final result is definitely wearable, but there are a couple of modifications I would incorporate should I sew these again.  I made view A, but left off the belt carriers and tie.  I don't like to wear my tops tucked in for the most part, so I didn't want the added bulk.  This pattern calls for an invisible zipper, but since these shorts are all made from scraps, I decided to use one of the old regular zippers from my stash.  My zipper application is less than stellar, but it will not be seen with my top covering it.  These shorts have very wide legs.  The circumference of the leg opening on my version is two inches smaller than how the pattern is drafted.  I decided to add some top-stitching to the cuff facing to jazz it up a bit.  The pattern drawing makes it look like you turn a cuff up, but it is actually a facing.
I also used some batik scraps for the pocket lining and waistband facings.  As you can see, I finished my pockets with pinking shears.  I like to do this on certain fabrics.  That way, the edges are not as visible from the outside.  Don't look too closely at the zipper, Yikes!  I much prefer an invisible zipper, but this is one more regular zipper reduced from my stash.
For the top I used and Ikat print rayon knit that I purchased during my spring trip to Oregon.  Once again, this was a fabric that had quite a large flaw in it.  I did not notice it until I washed it and laid it out to cut.  Bummer!  I was planning a dress with it, but my plans changed, since I had reduced yardage to work with.  It became a top.  All is well though.  I love it!

There were a few things I changed on View C of New Look 6033.  First, I cut two inches off the length before I added the contrasting facing on the bottom.  I also reduced the circumference of the facing and gathered the bottom of the top to fit it.  I really like this look on drapey knit tops.  Second, I left off the elastic at the waist.  There was no need for it now that the hip band is fitted.  Finally, on the sleeves, I added about 5/8" to the length, and instead of cutting the sleeves in two pieces (so that the sleeve can be split) I cut my sleeves in one piece.  I was more concerned about the pattern matching than having the split sleeve design.  And here is the whole outfit.  I plan to wear it tonight.  Hope you all have a great weekend and thanks for all your thoughts on the last outfit!

Friday, June 22, 2012

Pastel Party!

Aloha!  I really appreciate your thoughts on the last post, and in particular those who commented on the pastel color being a good shade for me.  I must have taken this to heart, because I was inspired to finally use a piece of polyester that I have had in my stash since the late 90's.  When I bought it, I really liked the print and color combination.  I also appreciated its heavier weight and beautiful drape.  I decided to make it into New Look 6327, view A.  I barely had enough fabric for this view, and in fact I had to lay one panel a little off-grain.  Thankfully, the print is so busy it's not noticeable.  I had made view B in my pre-blogging days, so I knew the size 10 would fit with minimal adjustments.  There is an invisible zipper in the left side seam and the waist is finished with facing.  There are six panels in this skirt.  I finished the bottom with a narrow hem.

You know me, I generally like to make whole outfits, so this time I paired the skirt with Burda 7487, view B. I have made this view before here.  I decided to make it out of a crepe back satin with the dull side as my right side.  Here are the two patterns:
And here is the finished top:
For both pieces I used a microfiber sewing needle.  It seems to have handled the dense polyester pretty well. For the top, I cut a corner by applying the waist band in one step.  I didn't do the hand stitching that is suggested in the pattern to hide the raw edge.  I cheated and used my serger.
Guess what?  I didn't stop with these two pieces.  Oh no...I had to have a pretty slip to wear underneath the skirt too.  LOL. I simply cut my favorite elastic-waist bias skirt out of white satin to make the slip.
Here is a detail shot of the skirt's invisible zipper and the bias slip waist band:
The complete outfit!  I don't really have an occasion to wear this yet.  But I love how feminine it is, and I like the fact that it will tucked away just waiting for the right event when I need it.

A final shot showing the glorious movement of the skirt.  Have a wonderful weekend everyone!

Thursday, June 14, 2012

New Look 6035 in Pale Pink

Aloha!  Summer is upon us here in Maui, according to the calendar, (It is always summer here in reality!), and I am anxious to get back to sewing some fun, breezy, sophisticated, styles in the next few months.  I have just taken one of the longest breaks ever from writing, sewing, and posting.  Time sure flies by!  I have several small swatches of hanky weight linen in my stash, so I want to pull those out and make good use of them.

I had about a yard and a half of pale pink linen, just enough to make the breezy tank top, seen in View C, from New Look 6035.  You need that extra half a yard because the neckline and armholes are finished with self-fabric bias binding that shows on the outside of the top.  The front and back are cut on the fold, and I was surprised to find that the back neckline was not too wide.  Usually with New Look patterns, I will have some gaping there, but not on this pattern.  I also like the small slit at the side seam near the hem.  I added the self-tie for more shape when worn untucked.  
Here is a close-up of the finished neckline and armholes.
I cut the size ten and did not make any changes to the pattern, except to cut out an extra piece of fabric to make a self tie.  The armholes have a little more room in them than I need, but I am not sure I will even adjust this on future versions as it is so slight.

I have some plaid linen in my stash that has been with me for years, and it will pair nicely with the pale pink in this top, so I hope to pull that out soon and make a pair of shorts or capris.  For the mean time, I've paired the top with a pair of rtw shorts from Old Navy that I found in the men's department.  They are a bit of a loose fit, but I liked the print :) and the loose fit makes them extremely comfortable.  Thanks for stopping by!