Thursday, December 1, 2011

Wide-Legged Pants Simplicity 4273

On the first day of December I have finished my wide-legged silk pants.  As you may remember, I decided to use Simplicity 4273, view E.  It wasn't a bad choice, but I did have fit issues to work out.  I actually made two muslins before I got them just right.  I am really happy that I took the time to do this, because now I have a pattern I can use anytime I need or want another pair of pants with similar style lines.  In fact, I am already thinking of a grass green pair made out of linen.  But I will save that for another post.

I got so caught up in my fit issues that when I laid out the final pattern on my fabric, I didn't pay attention to the direction of the print.  Bummer, because I would have preferred that the print run in the opposite direction.  Thankfully, it is a subtle error, so I don't think it is too noticeable that the Bird of Paradise are upside down!  I also washed and dried this fabric prior to construction and the silk did just fine. 

Anyway, here is the final look.
The top is Butterick 6085, blogged about here.



I thought I would show you how I altered the pattern pieces based on my first and second fittings.  I cut a size 12 and made it exactly as cut.  I realized that there was too much fabric in the front crotch, I could pinch out over an inch, and the back crotch was cut too high and not wide enough.  In-other-words, my bottom hung too low and full for the pattern.  Also, the hips were just a little bit too roomy.

For my first round of fitting on the front, I shaved off about 3/8" from the inner leg seam right there at the crotch and tapered back into the original seam line at about the knee.  When I made my second muslin, I realized that it didn't shorten the crotch enough, so I went back and slashed the pattern horizontally and overlapped at the front crotch seam about 3/8".  This still wasn't enough, so I also cut 3/4"off the top, tapering back into original side height.  In the photo below, you can see the line drawn across the top of the pattern, before I cut it off.
That took care of the front fit of the pants.  Now for the back.  I added 1/2" to the inner leg seam there at the crotch and redrew the shape of the crotch curve, by shaving off about 1/4" from the top of the curve to nearly the bottom, tapering back into the original crotch height near the inseam.  This gave me more room in the area where I needed it (the lower bum), and snugged up the high hip width.  With my second muslin, I discovered that the previous adjustments caused diagonal lines in the back of the pant legs.  In-other-words, they didn't fall in a nice straight line to the floor.  To fix this, I cut the pants piece vertically and spread out the bottom, adding about the same amount of width to the bottom of the pants as I added to the inner leg seam, then trimming the excess from the outer leg seam.  Trimming the excess, and tapering that line back into the original side seam at the high hip level, retained the original width of the pants.  This seemed to do the trick.  The bottom of the pants were slightly angled, but there was enough fabric in the hem to even this out.
One final note on fitting, the pattern instructs you to finish the yoke before attaching it to the pants (i.e. stitch the side seam together, then attach to the pants).  I attached my front yoke piece to the pants front and my back yoke to the back pants, then I stitched up the side seams from the hem to the top.  That way I could fine tune the width and shape of the hips.  I am really happy with the final look and am anxious to get started on the next pair!

PS: Sz asked if the silk fabric was available online.  I am happy to report that yes it is!  You can find it here, at www.gotfabric.com.  Hope that helps!

25 comments:

Amanda S. said...

Very nice! I bet wearing silk pants is like having pajamas on all day long, right?

KID, MD said...

They're lovely!! Even though you mentioned it, I can't tell the print is upside down. You got a wonderful fit. All the muslin-ing was worth it, eh? I was just thinking, reading your post, that I can't think of a time I've regretted making a muslin, but I can sure think of a few times I've regretted not making one!

Marie said...

They look fantastic - the aterations have paid off. And silk pants - I bet they feel wonderful to wear.

kbenco said...

What elegant and stylish trousers. Your fitting work has really paid off with these.

Karin said...

Nice job! Your alterations were spot on. These are lovely trousers.

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

Great job and fit. Well worth making two muslins.

velosewer said...

Thank you for the alteration details. Your pants do fit you really well and they look elegant.

Faye Lewis said...

Great job and great fit.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

you do such a great job on pants, they look fantastic. I think I started reading your blog after I saw your review of some red jeans you made. I wish I could make pants that fit me. And you had me laughing with the comments on the print, only you will notice, no one else. Lovely!

Texan said...

Very nice!!

Anna Christina said...

Love the blouse and panth together! Since it is just beginning to snow here in Michigan, I enjoy seeing your warm weather-wear. Enjoy it.

Sue said...

They are very elegant in the silk and drape beautifully.
What an excellent pattern to have on hand that fits so well.

Gabrielle said...

These look so elegant on you and perfect for your climate! And I couldn't tell which way up the birds were so I'm sure no one will notice this.

Thank you too for so clearly showing us the fitting changes to the pattern - this is a tricky area of the body for fitting!

Irene said...

These look wonderful! It really is worth the effort to work on the fit of pants.

Butterfly said...

That's a lot of muslins.But ut really paid of.

Uta said...

What a perfect, perfect fit. I hope you make lots of use of that pattern now! I wouldn't have noticed the print at all, just the lovely fabric!

gwensews said...

Those are very pretty pants. No one but you will know the print is upside down, I don't think. Nice fitting job too.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

That is a lovely pair of pants! I need to come visit you (in Hawaii, so sad) and learn about pants fitting because I'm not sure I even understood the words you said on how you adjusted it, LOL. But whatever it was, it was perfect.

Carolyn said...

Very classy, and you can't tell that the print is upside down. It looks quite abstract and subtle. :)

j.kaori said...

Lovely! The fabric hangs so beautifully!

Myra said...

If you wouldn't have said anything, no one would have noticed your very tiny mis-hap!! I love these pants, they look darling on you! The fit is perfect! That color will allow you to wear those pants with a number of other colors too! NICE!

fabric epiphanies said...

The print won't be upside down from where you are standing, lol!

Great pants. Printed pants haven't caught on yet in NZ, will be great when they do!

Caroline said...

ooooh, silk! How luxurious. And they look beautiful and fit you really well. I never would have noticed that the print was upside down.

Thanks for all the notes on how you fit the pants. I'll have to come back and refer to this whenever I get around to making pants one day. :) or shorts...

Green linen sounds lovely too. You have such an interesting wardrobe.

Alexandra said...

These are fantastic! They look wonderful.

Sheila said...

You did a great job on fitting and can imagine how silky comfortable they are. I have made several pants from that pattern which is becoming a TnT for me.