Tuesday, February 22, 2011

The Wedges Made Me Do It

"Made you do what?" you ask.  Well...ever since around Christmas I have been thinking about a certain pair of shoes that I fell in love with...kind of edgy, black, high, wedge-shaped.  I recently succumbed to the purchase, and they have been sitting in my closet just waiting to be let out of the box.  Of course, they would require a very special fabric for their first debut.  I began the hunt...I had to be patient....finally just the right print came up.  I've known for some time which pattern I wanted to make.  It is from the March 2009 issue of BurdaStyle and is #103.  Here is the technical drawing:

I was temporarily drug away from Simplicity 2648.  Seriously...it's only temporary!  And here is the crazy, fun, 80's inspired look!
I found the fabric at Hart's Fabrics online.  It is a poly Spandex blend.  It is very slippery, which made it a bit challenging to work with.  When I am working with fabrics like this, I just take my time and use a lot of pins.  I also find that I need the hard surface of a table to spread my project out on so that I can pin and line the fabric up easier.  Normally I stand at my ironing board to pin pieces.

The Pattern: BurdaStyle Magazine 03-2009-103:
This pattern consists of 4 pattern pieces.  It is not too difficult to assemble.  I understood the first half of Burda's instructions, but not the second half.  I too am a visual hands-on learner, without pictures or someone to show me, I have a very difficult time understanding something new when it comes to sewing.  This pattern reminds me of a Kwik Sew pattern I have made for my mom.  It also has four pieces with the yoke forming part of the sleeve.  So I made up this pattern using those instructions and it worked out fine.

The first thing I did was to interface the outside yoke pieces with Pro-Sheer Elegance from Fashion Sewing Supply.  I sewed the shoulder seams together on the yoke and the facing pieces then put them right sides together and sewed the neckline.  I clipped the curves then understitched the neckline.  Here is a close-up of the yoke on the inside and you can see the understitching.
Understitching and hand-sewn facing along lower edge.
The next step is the hardest to describe, but what you do is pin the armholes of inside and outside yokes, from one side of the garment, right sides together, with the armholes from the other side in between.  Then you turn that armhole right side out and do it on the other side.  (I've taken this explanation directly from Kwik Sew 3595).  Here is a picture of what I am describing:
This illustration is from the Kwik Sew 3595 instruction sheet.
The rest of the tunic is a breeze.  Just sew the side seams.  Instead of turning my armhole edges to finish, I trimmed 5/8" off, then bound the edge with self fabric.  This is a close-up of the armhole:

Notice how the facing roles to the outside on my sleeve cap.  I actually don't mind that.  I think it looks like piping.  I did try to understitch by hand, but I didn't like the way it turned out.  So I'm going with the "piping" look!  Once the armholes are finished you can attach the tunic to the yoke.  I hand stitched the facing down so that I would have a clean finish on the outside.
 I've never worn a print, that I can recall, that had illustrations of people in it.  But I really like this one!
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

38 comments:

Debbie said...

Shannon thank you so much for such a lovely fun post. It's a great outfit and a welcome distraction from our earthquake here in Christchurch. Your smiling face in the pictures really brightened my day.

Lisa said...

Shannon I love this fun outfit, the shoes are awesome I love them .

bg-booms said...

You are so beautiful in that dress!

MushyWear said...

My thoughts and prayers are with you Debbie and with the people of your region. Thank you for letting us know you are okay!

Karin said...

Great shoes! I am not surprised they have been on your mind, lol! I think the fabric you chose for the dress/tunic really makes it. The pattern is simple and really shows off the retro 80's, graphic design on the fabric.

Eugenia said...

You have really made the most of your piece of fun, striking fabric! Despite it being tricky to work with your construction looks perfect. The shoes are fabulous - the whole outfit looks wonderful.

elizabeth said...

Fabulous, Darling! : )

KID, MD said...

Wonderful outfit! I love the way you placed the print on this dress. And those shoes are completely amazing.

Sue said...

Excellent outfit! Love everything about it and the shoes finish it off perfectly!
The top is simple and shows off the print beautifully.

Uta said...

Great outfit! I love the print, the style, and how you're wearing it. (And that's saying something since I don't usually like the 80's look. Yours is fab though!)

Lisette M said...

Great look! You made the 80s modern!
Is the double stitching at the armhole done with a coverstitch machine?

Lori said...

Fantastic tunic. The print is fun and you found the perfect pattern to show it off. great job.

knottygnome said...

perfect match of fabric to pattern, and it looks fab with the shoes!

Kyle said...

Ok, I might need to hunt down that pattern--I love that shawl-collar styling!! You are really rocking this look--great job!

Shari said...

Great looking dress! Wonderful fabric choice...The whole outfit looks great!

Amanda S. said...

SO CUTE!!! I love the print, too bad they are all sold out of it. This tunic is on my to-be-sewn list, so I'm glad to see your illustrations for the yoke. Great job!

Anonymous said...

Love those shoes! I would have to find a reason to wear them everyday!

Vanessa said...

I like the throwback!! When I saw the technical drawing I thought you may go vintage, and I am glad to see a throwback instead! Also, I had "people shoes" growing up. They were shoes with people all over them and I loved them. It wouldn't work now, but this shirt works great for you, fabric and all.

HolleSE said...

Love The Shoes! It took me a minute to notice the top/dress because I was too busy drooling over shoes. But the dress is cute too!

gwensews said...

That is one cute dress! I love, love, love the print! I must get my eyes checked though, because I kept reading that you stood ON your ironing board to pin! I thought "what the heck? Is this a new tedhnique?" Ha!

Audrey said...

Great outfit, The dress looks wonderful made up in the large print. And I love your wedge booties. I just bought a similar pair, though mine aren't as edgy (lower wedge).

Mary Nanna said...

Very very nice - love the print - excellent pattern choice. You know I have been sewing Burda pretty solidly now for the past couple of years and you know what? I have got so used to the concise instructions I get impatient with long winded highly detailed ones with lots of pictures! I am a very visual person too so I am surprised by this.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

LOve the print and the outfit is gorgeous!

velosewer said...

Whoo hoo. Love it. It's great to try a different type of style. Cool.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I can see why you were obsessing about the shoes. They are awesome! The tunic is just the right way to show them off.

Aminat said...

The print is really nice....and those shoes are so beautiful

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

WOW! That fabric is awesome! The pattern is a perfect match for it. So fun.

Thanks for your nice comments on my S2648. Good luck finishing yours!

Joy said...

So, so fun. You've improved on the 80's (:
I've had my eye on that pattern for a while.

Caroline said...

I love how you effortlessly wear different styles. Those shoes are loads of fun!

I cut out my Jalie running skort today. Hopefully I'll start putting it together this week! I'm excited!

Marybeth said...

That is so cool looking, and the shoes are fab! I can't believe the 80's are considered "retro"!!! I'm like totally an 80's girl!

Carolyn said...

Fabulous shoes! I can see why they needed just the right dress for their debut!
That print is wonderful, and your dress is gorgeous!

Debra Martin said...

Super Cute! I love it!!

Irene said...

Awesome! - the dress, the shoes, and you, of course. For such a bold look, you really do have to have all the right pieces in place to make it all work, and you certainly hit the nail on the head with this one.

Victoria said...

Love this its super cute and fun! It looks great on you. BTW, love the shoes!

Myra said...

Too Cute Ms. Shannon!! I love this fabric and your work is awesome with it! You are rockin' those great shoes!! Total nice look!

Marie-Christine said...

Really cute. But fusing interfacing to the outside is always a risky proposition. One, you risk bubbles at some later laundry time. Two, you risk having the other side bubbling over, unless you make it proportionally smaller, taken the stretch of the original into account. Actually, you didn't need interfacing at all, 2 layers would have been fine, at most you may have wanted to cut the inside one on the cross-grain so as to have minimal side stretch.

mysummertouch said...

I love this outfit!! Love the print!!! I will definitely make it!

Leslie V said...

You were brave to pick the fabric. But it turned out beautiful and the shoes are to die for!!!