I am happy to tell you that I have finished Burda Style #103 from the 12/2009 issue just in time for tonight. I used an inexpensive cotton crinkle gauze with a light smattering of sequins from my stash. This color is not one of my favorites, but I did think the fabric would translate fairly well into this pattern. I lined the dress with a white cotton batiste, also from my stash. I would have preferred a matching lining, but I think it is mostly hidden from public view. I made View B, which is the shorter version. I added a mirror image hem to the opposite side of the dress because it was too short and I wasn't fond of the asymmetrical hemline. It reminded me of "The Flinstones". I also realized this dress was not drafted to be fitted, so I added two back darts for shaping. Overall, I think the dress does look nice for a casual dinner in a tropical location and am excited to wear it tonight. Without further adieu may I present my interpretation of Burda 103-12-2009...
This dress consists of two pattern pieces. The front piece has a bust dart on the left side. I cut one dress from the fashion fabric and another from lining. I cut the sleeve off of the lining piece and cut the hem about an inch shorter than the dress. I then hemmed the lining at the sleeve and hemline and basted these pieces to the fashion fabric, treating both as one piece for the rest of my construction.
Next, I inserted an invisible zipper on the left side. If your dress is going to be fitted you will want to have a long zipper. My zipper stops just about 1 inch below my neckline and ends just below my hip. To get a snug fit on the dress I basted the other side seam and began experimenting on where to place two back darts. This took a considerable amount of tries and just when I thought I had it all worked out, by husband pointed out that the back darts were shifted to one side. I think this happened because the dress sort of shifts forward on one side because of how the sleeve rests on your shoulder. So I had to shift the darts over about 1.5". So if you make this, be sure to try it on to mark your center back.
Once my back darts and side seam were finished I hemmed my sleeve and proceeded to finish the neckline. I cut a bias strip of closely matching fabric about 1.25" wide and about 1 inch shorter than my neckline. I joined this strip together in one continuous circle and stitched it to the neckline using a 3/8" seam. I understitched it then turned it to the inside of my dress where I wrapped the bias strip around the seam and hand stitched it down to the lining fabric only. This way I have no seam showing on the outside. Here is a picture of what I did.
Next I hemmed the dress. As I said, I didn't like how it looked so I cut another bottom half of the front and back dress pattern, flipping the pattern pieces since I wanted to create a mirror image. I then hemmed this new bottom and stitched the side seams and laid it in under my dress to make it even on both sides. Again, I tried the dress on to make sure the hemline was even. Once I was sure of my placement, I stitched it to the dress following the hemline stitching on the opposite top layer. I finished the raw edges under the dress with pinking shears, not very pretty, but it is not visible and you cannot see the outline of the seam under the dress. Here is a close-up of the finished hemline from the outside!
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