Friday, October 22, 2010

Hot Pattern 1090

You all were right.  Project Runway is the only show I watch on television!  Thanks for your thoughts and advice on the Hot Pattern dress.  I have finished it, and overall I am underwhelmed.  In all fairness, if I had made a muslin I would have recognized the details that I am not satisfied with, and fixed them ahead of time.  Also, part of my "meh" feeling may be related to the fabric.  The quality is superb and it feels great on, but it may not have enough drape for this pattern.  It is a poly/cotton interlock with matching ribbing with lycra.  I can easily correct the fit/design issues in future versions, but I'm not convinced I want to make this again.  I will have to think about it.

My measurements are between the size 8 and 10 and one of you kindly noted that the pattern runs big, so I decided to go with the size 8.  A size 8 is also designed for a woman who is 67 1/2" tall.  My height exactly.  Here is the pattern envelope again: 
Notice the collar and the elbow length sleeves in the center front illustration; the version I made.  The neckline should reveal your collar bone and the sleeves should go down to your elbow.  Here is my finished dress:
My collar is much narrower (it comes up to my throat) and the sleeves are about 2 inches shy of my elbow.  Both are disappointing.  Perhaps the collar problem occurred because I actually used a ribbing instead of self-fabric, but that is what the pattern recommends.  Actually, it says "rib knit".  Maybe my ribbing has too much lycra and pulls the neckline in too much.  Also, if I hadn't taken the cuffs in by another 3/8" (the seam allowance is 3/8") they would have been horribly loose.  Here is a close-up:

I was also disappointed by the design of the hemline cuff.  It too was entirely too loose and too wide making it look sloppy, and the finished dress length was too long, although the dress length seems to be accurately depicted in the pattern illustration.  I had to remove the hemline cuff two times to find satisfaction with the final result pictured above.  I trimmed about 1" off the finished vertical width and trimmed the horizontal width about 10".  I also shortened the skirt close to 4" before applying the cuff.  

The shoulder seams are also about an inch too far back, and the curve is too sharp.  If I hadn't flattened the curve out, it would have looked like I had small wings.  The sleeves are too puffy for my liking, but I don't think that would have bothered me as much if they had been longer; down to my elbows. 

Hot Pattern's instructions were easy to follow, but on step 6d I don't know how you can press the seamline down where the bodice and skirt connect, when the previous step tells you to press the seamline open and stitch your elastic to the open seamline.  There is also a printing error on the bodice back where two sizes are labeled 8 instead of one being labeled 6.  Also, on the instructions themselves, at step 7a, the lines get very small and squished together.  It isn't a real problem since those instructions are basically repeated steps 4a and 4b.  Since I still have my pattern pieces laying around, I may just go ahead and redraft the problematic areas and try another one right away.  This dress certainly is comfortable and easy to make.  I styled it as I would like to wear it if I were in cool, mainland, fall, weather.  The reality is I'll probably wear it with my black gladiator sandals.  It is fun to put on a pair of tights though!  Happy Aloha Friday everyone!
      

18 comments:

Handmade said...

I must say that I agree with your lack of enthusiasm - it really doesn't resemble the envelope drawings ... why don't they have real photographs? I've never made a Hot Patterns garment - can't say I'm rushing too either! Having said all that - you look a million bucks in just about anything!

Marie-Christine said...

I totally agree with your assessment of the neck ribbing - too tight. If you have enough, I'd really recommend just changing that, adding whatever you think will give the envelope's effect (pin it on yourself first?). I'm sure you'll find the sleeves will fall properly then too, fixing all your mehs in one stroke.

MushyWear said...

Thanks for the suggestion Marie-Christine. I actually am in the process of re-working this dress. I lengthened the sleeves 2" and moved the shoulder seams forward and pinned a longer neckband on. I think I see what the problem is now. The neckband is drafted as a long rectangle, therefore it doesn't curve nicely. I may pull out my Hot Patterns "Sunshine Top" pattern and use that neckband instead. I'll keep you posted. I'm still feeling like this is a lot of work for what should be an simple pattern and I am just not convinced I like the silhouette! Sew and Learn...

Sue said...

So disappointing for you. I also agree - there should be a photo of the garment made up, on a model, on the front of pattern envelopes. Otherwise it's the designer's interpretation which doesn't necessarily exactly match the pattern pieces.

Kyle said...

Hi Shannon, I agree with Marie Christine that changing out the neck band may solve a few problems. I see that you're already reworking it which is awesome! The dress is really cute and I could see it in several colors! I think the silhouette works really well on you. My hips are too big to pull this look off, though now you have me thinking about making this dress and making the bottom part of it a-line and eliminating the hem band. hrm....

Julia said...

I've said it before, and I'll say it again! You would look good in a potato sack! I love this dress on you. I'm sorry you were disappointed with it, but truly it looks amazing on you. Oh to have such a slim little body again!!!!!

Cissie said...

I had problems similar to yours the first time. Partly due to my fabric (4 way stretch) I think. My collar did exactly as yours, but didn't happen the second time. I forgot to mention earlier that I too had to shorten the skirt quite a bit (and I am 68" tall). Same with the short sleeve version -- way too short. Hope you'll be happier with the next try. But it looks cute on you despite issues.

Cissie said...

Oh, another thing. I attached the elastic while joining the bodice to the skirt -- just one step. Much easier and less bulk.

nette said...

oh, I know what it is like if one's sewing project does not turn out as imagined. but actually, though it is different, I do think it looks beautiful on you.

Vanessa said...

I agree also with the neckband issues. I hope, with a little bit of your alterations, this dress will turn out to be something you really love because the dress is nice.

Alexandra Mason said...

I really like the style, but i know what you mean about the neckband. Hope your next one turns out well.

Mary said...

You always look great, no matter the outfit! But I am looking forward to seeing the new and improved version of this outstanding dress.

Linda said...

I think the dress looks good on you; yet I know how it is for something to not meet your expectations. I gave up on HP patterns a long time ago. Others have great success with them; I never have.

paola said...

very nice complements great work

Carolyn said...

Well, I think the dress looks pretty cute, but I can see why you would be disappointed as I agree it doesn't look anything like the pattern envelope. How strange that the sizing should be so off!!
But, expectations aside, it is a nice little mini dress in a gorgeous colour, so I hope you enjoy it like this too!

Tasia said...

I've never tried a hot pattern, that's too bad about your experience! I agree with the others about the neck band, you still look great though!

Angela said...

I agree about redoing the neckband... but like the others I still think it looks great on you!

Caroline said...

I think it is nice, but frustrating that it didn't turn out as you wanted, or as advertised ... I think it is still quite nice, and it does look comfy. I'll be interested to see your redo.

I'm with you about wearing tights - it's taken a long time to cool off this year here - by last year it was cool at the end of October, but not this year. We've had some cool days here and there but in general it is still pretty warm - days in the upper 80's. But so much more comfy than summer ... not quite time to break out my multitudinous pairs of colored tights though. I bet you get barely any tights weather at all.

Thanks for your sweet comment on my blog; I feel like I have some things to try, but no sure answer ...