The skirt is Burda #116 from the September 2010, issue. I made it out of an inexpensive, stretch, dark-olive sateen. This pattern would probably do a little better with a drapier fabric, because it does tend to crease/fold out towards the front at the horizontal panels when walking or sitting. I will probably make it again in a quality tropical weight wool or rayon gabardine to match the quality of the blouse. The technical drawing is here. I cut a size 36, and added approximately one inch to the waist. The other change I made was to have two back walking vents instead of one to keep it symmetrical. I inserted an invisible zipper and it is lined with nude-colored Bemberg rayon, which is the only color I had on hand. I had forgotten to add an extra inch to the hem when I cut it out, but as you can see the skirt is quite long and I even hemmed it two inches instead of the recommended 1 5/8". The construction of this skirt is fairly easy. One thing I like about this design is that it gives the illusion of hips, if you are like me and have a boyish figure.
I would mention that it might be a good idea not to trim your seam allowance on the curved front seams so that they will stay flat when you press them open. I cut mine a little narrow after I pressed them open and now they want to stay together and not stay open nor lie flat when I am wearing the skirt, which make a little bulge along the seam line. Again, maybe the choice of fabric has something to do with this.
Here are some close-ups of the details:
|Double Back Vent and Blind Hem|
|Invisible Zipper |
(Wish I had had an olive one handy, but the blue does not bother me too much since there is blue in the blouse. Also, I think this outfit would look great with a wide belt, which would also hide the zipper pull.)
|Front Curved Horizontal Panels|
I used Burda pattern 8153 and also cut a size 36. My fabric is a designer, cotton/silk, digital print. What a fantastic fitting long sleeved blouse this is. It has bust darts and front and back shaping darts at the waist. I did not have to make any alterations. The collar is a smidge wide and gives it a bit of a retro feel, which with this fabric, I love. The sleeves have vents with facing and two pleats on each side. The cuffs are interfaced. I put two buttons on mine instead of just one. I used all french seams in the construction except where I set in the sleeves. I was so nervous working with this fabric and I did make one big mistake, which thankfully I was able to hide when I attached the collar. Instead of attaching the collar from the outside of the shirt, I had to attach it to the inside and fold it to the outside then stitch it down. I think I will be the only one who notices this since the collar hides the collar stand. The inside is evenly stitched and this is the side that shows. I am going to love this blouse not only with the above skirt, but more casually with jeans, like this:
What's next? Something tiny, adorable, and soft!