Simplicity 2599

Simplicity 2599 is a pattern that I plan to make several versions of.  Adorable results can be had from it.  The pattern is for 4 sleeveless tunics and 2 short sleeve blouses with various ruffle and flower embellishments. Bonus!  It has separate pattern pieces for B-D cup sizes.  I made view D.  My fabric is a linen cotton blend.  I cut a size 4 based on the finished bust "B" width.  I should have made a muslin on this, but I roughly measured the hip width, armhole, neckline, etc. and felt I could make a couple of adjustments without a muslin.  Though my version turned out wearable, there are a couple of changes I will make on the next one.

I made three alterations:
 
A. Instead of using a neck facing I decided to bind the neck with self-bias.  Reason #1, I didn't want to have to worry about turning the gathered ruffle's seam allowance down into the facing.  I thought this might cause the ruffle to poke out away from the garment, because the ruffle is doubled and a bit stiff.  Reason #2, I cut my ruffles on the bias and thought the neckline done on the diagonal would look cute too.  An advantage to cutting the ruffles on the bias is that the raw edges should not fray too bad. I didn't turn under the self-bias binding on the inside neckline either for the same reason.  We will see if that pans out for me! I'm not much of a ruffles person, but I love how subtle these ruffles are.  They lay pretty flat to the chest.  When I look down my front the ruffles look fancy without being over the top, or too close to my face, if that makes sense?

B. I did finish the armholes as suggested and added the step of understitching the bias before I turned it to the inside and stitched it down.  That way the fabric on the outside rolls in slightly so you can't see the seam.  It's worth the extra step to do this.

C.  The size 4 would have been too small in the armholes as is, so I added 1" to the back shoulder seam resulting in a forward shoulder adjustment and giving me extra room.  I think it worked out fine. 

Two things I will change on the next top:  Raise the bust dart up about 1", add about 1/2" to the side seam under the arm.  Even though the finished chest size on the B cup in a size 4 is supposed to be 35", it feels too tight for me.  An extra inch should do the trick.

Also, I am pleased with the loop I made for the back closure.  It is a small detail, but I think it is the narrowest loop I've ever made and looks cute for the closure.

 I am wearing the top with my tnt bias cut skirt made last summer.  I have more of this linen, and I think I will be making a pair of high waisted shorts out of it to go with this top as well.  I'm looking forward to making this top again.  

Edited on 7/12/10 at 4:38 pm.  You must see Green Apples,  A Sewn Wardrobe, and Vacuuming the Lawn's versions too.  Very pretty!