Burda 8085. I am showing the side view. If you'd like to see the front and back view click here. This is a pattern for low-waisted, very fitted, jean type pants. The pattern features curved front pockets, back yoke, belt loops (or not) and two different lengths: capri or to the floor. With the capris, instructions are given for how to bias bind the seam allowances for a neat look when you turn the cuffs up. I made the capris, view B, in a size 12. This pattern is designed for stretch wovens, so I went up a size, because I was using a nonstretch khaki twill. I also used a 3/8" seam allowance on the side seams, but I think I should have stuck with the 5/8" seam allowance, because they are a little too roomy.
I had to make a couple of alterations, and if I was to make these again, I think I still need to take about 1/2" out of the front crotch curve to eliminate the bit of wrinkling I have there. When I test fitted these, they had a lot of fullness (wrinkling) under the butt, at the back of the thigh. To improve this, I took about 5/8" off the back pant leg at the inner seam, near the crotch and tapered back down to the seam line at about 7 inches. This really helped, but the back leg pattern piece could probably used some more altering to get it just right. I am very happy with the back crotch curve. I have a couple of pants fitting books I have pulled out and am reading. I really want to learn how to make perfect fitting pants and shorts. I prefer to wear skirts, but maybe I would wear more pants/shorts if they fit great!
I was concerned about my ability to understand the instructions regarding the zipper application. Steps 9 through 14 explain how to insert the zipper, and I think I followed them just as written. My zipper looks just like the picture at step 14, but then when you get to picture 17, it shows that the back of the zipper has a placket to protect you from zipping yourself on the left side. Mine does not have this, and I don't know what I missed in the instructions. Thankfully, it is not a functional problem, I just need to be careful when zipping these capris! I will want to add this feature in future versions.
I knew I would be making a cuff on the bottom of the capris, so I didn't use the bias binding on the seam allowances at the inner and outer leg. I used a single needle to stitch the design on the back of the pockets. The first pocket is a little less accurate, but because the thread matches the fabric, it isn't very noticeable. This is a picture of the second pocket. If you look closely I forgot to change my stitch width when I turned at one of the corners, darn it! But again, it's not very noticeable.
I have to say these capris are pretty comfortable and stay up nicely even though they are low-waisted and slightly roomy. The fabric is buttery soft too. I will wear them this season, but would like to refine the fit if I make them again. I'm not sure I like this style either, so I will have to think about that too.
Burda Tri-Color coat 12/2012 # 138, part 1
2 hours ago